U.K.: MARIA CHEN PASCUAL AND MICHIKO KOSHINO UNVEIL THEIR LATEST COLLECTIONS ON THE OPENING DAY OF THE LONDON FASHION WEEK
Record ID:
190473
U.K.: MARIA CHEN PASCUAL AND MICHIKO KOSHINO UNVEIL THEIR LATEST COLLECTIONS ON THE OPENING DAY OF THE LONDON FASHION WEEK
- Title: U.K.: MARIA CHEN PASCUAL AND MICHIKO KOSHINO UNVEIL THEIR LATEST COLLECTIONS ON THE OPENING DAY OF THE LONDON FASHION WEEK
- Date: 15th February 2003
- Summary: (U7) LONDON, UNITED KINGDOM (FEBRUARY 15, 2003) (REUTERS) 1. VARIOUS OF BACKSTAGE AT MARIA CHEN PASCUAL SHOW (4 SHOTS) 0.19 2. SCU: DESIGNER MARIA CHEN PASCUAL DRINKING CHAMPAGNE 0.25 3. SCU: MODEL HAVING MAKE-UP APPLIED 0.29 4. SCU: SOUNDBITE (English) DESIGNER MARIA CHEN PASCUAL SAYING "The collection's called 'Love is stronger than Death' and I think that pretty much sums up what I'm trying to say with the collection. The background behind the clothing comes from Vita Sackville West and the Bloomsbury set and about femininity and the strength of women." 0.45 5. LILAC MINI DRESS WITH BLACK SATIN JACKET 0.55 6. PATTERNED TOP AND BROWN LEATHER TROUSERS 1.04 7. NUDE COLOURED DRESS WITH FRINGING 1.17 8. SV: SILVER CHAIN-MAIL TOP WITH GREY CARDIGAN 1.27 9. SV: CREAM PATTERNED MINI-DRESS AND CROPPED LEATHER JACKET 1.34 10. PALE GREY CHIFFON DRESS 1.41 11. BLACK SATIN TROUSERS SINGLE BREASTED JACKET 1.48 12. MODELS ON CATWALK AT END OF SHOW 1.56 13. VARIOUS BACKSTAGE AT MICHIKO KOSHINO SHOW (3 SHOTS) 2.15 14. MODEL WEARING CAMEL COAT WITH GOLD TRIM 2.24 15. PEACH CHIFFON TROUSERS AND CREAM WOOL TOP 2.31 16. PEACH TOP WITH GREY MINI SKIRT WITH PINK TRIM 2.38 17. NAVY PINAFORE DRESS WITH SILVER STRAPS 2.43 18. CREAM DISTRESSED WOOL TOP AND NAVY SKIRT 2.51 19. LEMON TRENCH COATS AND FLORAL SATIN SHORTS 3.00 20. KHAKI BELTED JACKET AND FLORAL SATIN SHORTS 3.09 21. GREY BOX-PLEAT PINAFORE DRESS AND PINK SATIN HOODED TOP 3.18 22. GREY WOOL CARDIGAN AND GREY TROUSERS WITH LEG-WARMERS 3.23 23. DESIGNER MICHIKO KOSHINO ON CATWALK WITH MODELS (2 SHOTS) 3.42 Initials Script is copyright Reuters Limited. All rights reserved
- Embargoed: 2nd March 2003 12:00
- Keywords:
- Location: LONDON, ENGLAND, UNITED KINGDOM
- City:
- Country: United Kingdom
- Reuters ID: LVA1AN2RT6RCIOJCTSKJ78LP562Y
- Story Text: Schoolgirl pinafore dresses and tiny chain-mail tops
have been among the diverse designs vying for attention
on the first day of London Fashion Week.
In a collection entitled 'Love is Stronger than Death',
British designer Maria Chen Pascual blacked up her models'
eyes, scraped back their hair and sent them down the catwalk
on Saturday (February 15) in shades of grey, black and brown.
"The collection's called 'Love is stronger than Death'
and I think that pretty much sums up what I'm trying to say,"
the designer said.
"The background behind the clothing comes from Vita
Sackville West and the Bloomsbury set and about femininity and
the strength of women", she said, refering to the circle of
artists and intellectuals in 1920s London renowned for their
bohemian attitudes.
Bomber jackets, belted trench coats and tight leggings
figured heavily in the androgynous collection. But tiny
floral-printed satin shorts peeked out from underneath the
masculine coats and jackets, and softly-draped grecian-style
dresses also made an appearance.
Fabrics were leather, denim, velour, corduroy and draped
jersey. The predominantly dark colour palette was accented
with burnt oranges and dusky pinks.
The overall mood was individual. The 1980s were recalled
with tight velour leggings and asymmetrical tailoring, but
brought up to date with silver chain-mail tops and dresses,
and given a feminine edge with soft draping and feminine cuts.
Maria Chen Pascual trained at Parson's in New York, where
she won a menswear design scholarship, then Central St.
Martins College in London, and is now completing a doctorate
at the Royal College of Art.
Known for her original fabric techniques and conceptual
cutting, She has designed a customised collection for
sportswear company Adidas and a T-shirt range for British high
street chain Top Shop.
Michiko Koshino showed an equally muted colour palate in
her Autumn/Winter collection, but with a liberal splash of
metallic silvers and golds.
Deconstruction was a theme running through the collection.
Wool dresses had torn box pleat panels and runs and snags were
built in to knitwear. Fabrics were faded and bleached, but
given a new lease of life with metallic patches.
Printed fabric peeped from under the hems of tiny wool
skirts and dresses. Schoolgirl-style pinafore dresses were
held up with shiny silver straps. Trousers had high waistbands
which unzipped to reveal contrasting inner panels.
Michiko Koshino recently celebrated 21 years in the
fashion industry. Based in London, she has built up a strong
reputation as a leading designer pushes the boundaries of
fashion design. She is internationally known for her
innovative use of high-tech fabrics and unusual cutting
techniques.
As well as clothes, Koshino also designs cosmetics,
underwear, sunglasses and watches and was the first designer
to market condoms under her own name.
London has long had a reputation as a breeding ground for
young talent and the schedule of 50 catwalk shows over the
coming week is packed with little-known names.
But most designers who unveiled collections on Saturday
would have been disappointed at the poor showing of important
international press and buyers.
While Paris, Milan and New York, chock full of big names
and money, know their place at fashion's high table is
assured, London has struggled in recent years to prove its
stable of edgy young designers can cut it with the best.
Only a handful of names showing are widely recognised
outside fashion circles. Among them are celebrity favourites
Julien Macdonald, Roland Mouret, Burberry and Paul Smith.
Clements Ribeiro and Katharine Hamnett are returning to London
after several seasons showing elsewhere.
Lesser known designers tipped as rising stars include
Alice Temperley, Warren Noronha, Emma Cook and Sophia
Kokosolaki.
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