FRANCE: French label Christian Dior shows upbeat collection with classic, feminine and sheer looks, in its first Pret-A-Porter presentation without sacked designer John Galliano

Record ID: 197280

  • Title: FRANCE: French label Christian Dior shows upbeat collection with classic, feminine and sheer looks, in its first Pret-A-Porter presentation without sacked designer John Galliano
  • Date: 3rd October 2011
  • Summary: PARIS, FRANCE (SEPTEMBER 30, 2011) (REUTERS) ( *** BEWARE FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY **) WIDE EXTERIOR OF RODIN MUSEUM WIDE OF BUILDING WITH DIOR LOGO WHERE FASHION SHOW TOOK PLACE U.S. STYLIST RACHEL ZOE AND HUSBAND ROGER BERMAN ARRIVING BERMAN KISSING ZOE CLOSE OF SHOES OF PEOPLE IN QUEUE WIDE OF CARINE ROITFELD, FORMER EDITOR OF FRENCH VOGUE, ARRIVING (SOUNDBITE) (English) FORMER EDITOR OF FRENCH VOGUE, CARINE ROITFELD, SAYING: "I'm sure they will find the right person but it's such a big brand. It's like something exceptional everywhere in the world so no problem for them." FASHION EDITOR OF BRITAIN'S TELEGRAPH NEWSPAPER LISA ARMSTRONG, WHO WAS INVITED TO DIOR A FEW DAYS AHEAD OF THE COLLECTION TO VIEW THE CLOTHES, ARRIVING (SOUNDBITE) (English) FASHION EDITOR OF BRITAIN'S TELEGRAPH NEWSPAPER, LISA ARMSTRONG, SAYING: "They were very chic, they were very traditional Christian Dior, not John Galliano Dior, not so much theatre. But I only saw 12 outfits so we may see a bit of theatre. But I think that Bill Gayten, who's designing at the moment, feels very much that the spectacle was John's area and he (Gayten) is sticking with the clothes."
  • Embargoed: 18th October 2011 13:00
  • Keywords:
  • Location: France, France
  • Country: France
  • Topics: Arts
  • Reuters ID: LVABM8GBWWFRIQ517CP3CD5DMJAN
  • Story Text: Gone was the theatricality, voluminous portions and showmanship that were signatures of former designer John Galliano. In its place at French label Christian Dior's show on Friday (September 30) was a literal return to form, with classic shapes and slimmer silhouettes.
    The mood of the Ready-To-Wear collection was upbeat and positive, an attempt by the embattled fashion house to march on despite the uncertainty of its future. The house has said it would announce a new designer "imminently" with names such as Louis Vuitton's Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang and Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci amongst those rumoured to be in the mix.
    British actor Orlando Bloom was amongst the glamourous guests to arrive. His wife Australian model Miranda Kerr, walked the show.
    The former editor of French Vogue, Carine Roitfeld, said the house of Dior would find the right candidate in one of fashion's most coveted design roles.
    "I'm sure they will find the right person but it's such a big brand. It's like something exceptional everywhere in the world so no problem for them," she said.
    The Fashion Editor for Britain's Telegraph newspaper Lisa Armstrong was the only journalist invited to get a sneak preview of the collection on Wednesday (September 28), something unusual, she told Reuters Television, and a sign that the French brand was being open to the media despite its troubles.
    She added that although she only saw 12 looks, the collection was a significant departure away from Galliano, who was famously sacked in February over anti-Semitic comments.
    "They were very chic, they were very traditional Christian Dior, not John Galliano Dior, not so much theatre. But I only saw 12 outfits so we may see a bit of theatre. But I think that Bill Gayten, who's designing at the moment, feels very much that the spectacle was John's area and he (Gayten) is sticking with the clothes," said Armstrong.
    Dior's acting designer Bill Gayten, who was Galliano's right hand man for 23 years, showed a much more subdued collection than his predecessor.
    He opened the show with a nod to the brand's "New Look", which Monsieur Dior himself made famous in the Fifties -- a high, nipped in waist and full skirt.
    The collection also included pastel coloured flowing organza dresses, tight at the waist and open in the back.
    Bursts of red brought to life what was otherwise a very calm and safe colour palette which included nudes, blacks and pale pinks.
    Dior Chief Executive and Chairman Sidney Toledano wouldn't disclose what would be happening next with the brand but would only talk about the current collection and interim designer.
    "The mood is very positive and you know the house and the teams have been together with the atelier, the workshop. This is a fantastic house where energy and good mood are key words," he said backstage after the show.
    But the collection was received with little applause from critics and buyers even though it remained faithful to the label's traditional codes.
    "This show did what it had to do. I thought people said it was safe. It was safe but it went very much to the heritage of Dior in a very respectful, graceful way. And it's funny it felt like to me, it's taking everything back to ground zero, so whatever happens next, there was a breathing space," he said.
    The show was not attended by LVMH Chief Executive and founder Bernard Arnault, who usually sits in the front row and it also lacked its usual spray of celebrities.
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