UNITED KINGDOM: With the CEO and Chairman of Christian Dior Sidney Toledano saying the announcement of a new designer is "weeks away", a look what could be next for the embattled French label

Record ID: 197345

  • Title: UNITED KINGDOM: With the CEO and Chairman of Christian Dior Sidney Toledano saying the announcement of a new designer is "weeks away", a look what could be next for the embattled French label
  • Date: 3rd October 2011
  • Summary: PARIS, FRANCE (FILE) (REUTERS) VARIOUS EXTERIORS OF DIOR STORE
  • Embargoed: 18th October 2011 13:00
  • Keywords:
  • Location: United Kingdom, United Kingdom
  • Country: United Kingdom
  • Topics: Arts
  • Reuters ID: LVAC5QGB9TI36L94NOQ0L3F9UA2K
  • Story Text: Dior remained tight-lipped on Friday (September 30) about the search to replace John Galliano despite the growing clamour of critics who dismissed the French fashion label's second show since it fired its chief designer as a programmatic repeat of past styles.
    Dior has now been without a chief designer for half a year since it fired Galliano after he was caught on a video that was widely circulated on the Internet making anti-Semitic remarks in a Paris bar.
    Dior Chief Executive and Chairman Sidney Toledano told Reuters after the show that despite the high dramas which took place off the catwalk, business for the label was still going strong.
    "Things are doing well frankly. I know the finance of the world isn't looked at. But the economy is doing well and all these emerging markets, there is growth and a positive side," he said.
    The rumour mill has been in overdrive during Paris Fashion Week with endless speculation about who could replace Galliano after media reports indicated negotiations with early favourite Marc Jacobs were not going well.
    Fashion editors have lent their support to Jacobs, who point to his "great eye" but also warn of some dark demons which could usurp the U.S. designer even before an announcement of Dior's new design chief is made.
    "He (Marc Jacobs) has the shoulders I will say and the talent," said Carine Roitfeld, French Vogue's former Editor.
    "The problem is, you need someone very, very creative but you need someone who can deal with all the pressure. But that's a huge contradiction in terms isn't it. Huge talent and serenity don't seem to go together," said Lisa Armstrong, Fashion Editor for Britain's Telegraph newspaper.
    "One thing that Marc is incredibly good at is putting together a team that can facilitate his vision. It will be interesting for sure. He's just got such a great eye and there's so much to draw on, with Dior," added Tim Blanks, a Contributing Editor for U.S. Vogue's website, style.com.
    Other names in the frame include Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci and Alexander Wang, but fashion critics say the designer's urban and masculine style might not be right for couture. Young designer Erdem who shows at London Fashion Week and who's known for dressing the wives of presidents was also backed by Fashion Critic Colin McDowell of Britain's Sunday Times newspaper.
    Women's Wear Daily published a story this week quoting Toledano saying the announcement was "weeks away."
    If Dior's couture collection -- its first without Galliano -- was panned by critics in July, its spring/summer collection was received with little applause from critics and buyers even though it remained faithful to the label's traditional codes.
    Dior's new collection, designed by Bill Gaytten, Galliano's former right-hand man, included pastel coloured flowing organza dresses, tight at the waist and open in the back.
    The presentation also featured variations of Christian Dior's famous bustier tops and close-fitting Bar jacket but in ochre, soft beige and some bright orange colours.
    British milliner Stephen Jones, who designed the hats for Dior's spring/summer 2012 collection was optimistic about the brand's future without its disgraced former designer.
    "I mean John was a great influence on me and personally a great friend of mine. But Dior will carry on without him and I'm sure it will turn into a fabulous new thing," he said.
    And what is to come of Gallino next? Will he return to fashion design or embark on other creative ventures? Jones said Galliano must first get control of his life.
    "I think he's going to take things very slowly and I hope he does become a private person and not a public person. I think that's the next stage of his life. And get well," he said.
    Dior said this month business continued to be brisk despite the deepening gloom in the markets.
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