RUSSIA: Remote Dagestan village keeps ancient traditions despite political and economic turmoil

Record ID: 384412

  • Title: RUSSIA: Remote Dagestan village keeps ancient traditions despite political and economic turmoil
  • Date: 26th May 2010
  • Summary: MORE OF PEOPLE IN STREET
  • Embargoed: 10th June 2010 13:00
  • Keywords:
  • Topics: Arts / Culture / Entertainment / Showbiz,Lifestyle
  • Reuters ID: LVABPLXWYWYOYDWYXOH28MPU7III
  • Story Text: Kubachi, a picturesque village nestled in the Caucasus mountains of Russia's turbulent Muslim region of Dagestan, is world famous. It is home to the tradition of delicate silverwork, first brought to the region by Persian traders almost two millennia ago.
    Along with the ancient craft, the people of Kubachi, a village whose population is a mere 2,300, has managed to preserve its unique language and customs.
    At the street market people speak a local Kubachi language, a Caucasian dialect only spoken in the village, and not understood by its neighbours. Women wear traditional white shawls, which clearly distinguish them from the hijabs worn elsewhere in Dagestan.
    Residents of Kubachi boast that every man, woman and child here knows and preserves the ancient traditions, and above all, the art of silver handiwork.
    One of Kubachi's most-respected silver masters, 79 year-old Gadzhiomar Izabakarov, proudly shows off his collection of silverware and pottery, assembled over centuries by his ancestors. To have a home museum is another Kubachi tradition. The collection is passed from parents to children. Among numerous artefacts there are some made by Izabakarov himself, like a beautiful silver jug and goblets on a tray.
    "In the past, Kubachi craftsmen used to make chain armour. When there was no demand for chain armour any longer they switched to making arms, such as daggers and sabres. Later they started making jewellery. They also made cauldrons and other houseware and worked with silver," said Izabakarov at his home museum, where Kubachi residents traditionally receive guests.
    "In Kubachi, traditionally the father passed his art on to the son. There were also special workshops where a master would teach young people," added Izabakarov, who himself teaches Kubachi traditional craft at a local school.
    Unusual for Soviet times, the village was granted permission by the Kremlin to teach the traditional art form 40 years ago in the state-run school. From the first grade boys learn the art of silver handiwork, while girls embroider traditional shawls.
    Teacher Kultum Kutsulova, clad in a flowing white shawl decorated with gold paisley teardrops she has embroidered, carefully watches over students etching elaborate, swirled flowers into silver, drawing traditional ornaments and embroidering fine patterns.
    "I don't think our traditional craft and our language will ever disappear, because nowhere else people are trying to preserve their ancient roots like in our village. If you travel around through other villages, you won't find the same level of preservation of ancient, unique art as here," said Kultum Kutsulova.
    There are two lessons of Kubachi art a week and by the time of graduation all students master the ancient skills. Some, like 16 year-old Ilyas Tyushev, earn money by making traditional Kubachi silver handicrafts.
    "My grandfather worked in the enamel technique, my father works with enamel, I do enamel rarely, mostly I use an engraving technique," he said.
    For Dagestan, a Russian region home to over 40 ethnicities, Kubachi is a good example of how a small nation can preserve its old culture and traditions.
    But there are signs that times are changing.
    29-year-old Daud Shakhayev specialises in making traditional Kubachi arms. Working on a gift sabre which will take him about six months to complete, he says he can barely make a living by following craft techniques used by the old masters.
    "The traditional style is a famous Kubachi deep engraving, it includes embossing and additional engraving, first layer engraving. It is a distinct complicated style, which is hard to describe in a few words. As for the young craftsmen, they are more and more oriented towards business now. If you work using traditional technique you cannot turn your craft into profitable business," he said.
    But while many prefer profit to art, there are also young masters like Daud, who are eager to preserve the ancient and beautiful art of their forefathers.
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